From Beans to Brews: Coffee in America

Welcome to Civics and Coffee. My name is Alycia and I am a self-professed history nerd. Each week, I am going to chat about a topic on U.S history and give you both the highlights and occasionally break down some of the complexities in history; and share stories you may not remember learning in high school. All in the time it takes to enjoy a cup of coffee. 

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Hey everyone, welcome back. 

If you’ve been a long time listener of the podcast, then you know I like to infuse our normal episodes with listener requests. A while back, longtime supporter of the podcast Phillip requested that I cover the history of coffee in the United States. 

Philip is the host of the Modern Scholars podcast and has been a past guest on the show when he discussed his scholarship about the emergence of the U.S. Air Force Military Service. If you haven’t checked out that episode already, be sure to add it to your queue after this one and pick up your copy of Rise of the Mavericks.

As the standard whenever I dive into historical requests, I learned a bunch of new information about the important role coffee has played in our identity as America and how we’ve perfected the taste over the years. 

So, in honor of our subject today I invite you all to grab your cup of coffee, peeps. Let’s do this.

According to several studies conducted by the National Coffee Association and Drive research, nearly 75% of people living in the United States stated they drink coffee on a daily basis. On average, Americans enjoy nearly 3 cups of coffee as part of their daily routine which equates to roughly 400 million cups per day in the U.S alone. While coffee is enjoyed by millions throughout the world, it has long been associated with American culture. Of course, that wasn’t always the case. But before we get into how it became an American staple, let’s talk about how a little bean changed the world. 

The coffee bean originated in Ethiopia where it was ingested as a food source before people realized it could be ground up in powder form and infused with water to become a drink. The plant was exported to the Arabian Peninsula where it continued to spread across the Western Hemisphere, eventually landing in the new world. 

There seems to be some debate about exactly when and how coffee was introduced in America. According to the National Coffee Association, the caffeinated bean was first brought to the new world in the 1600s through the port city of New Amsterdam, better known today as New York. They state that coffee was imported by the Dutch in 1640, but that the beverage suffered from the length of time it took to transport from across the pond. Some other articles I read refuted that claim, stating there is a lack of evidence to prove the product was imported into the area so early on. English Captain John Smith, who helped establish a colony along the Virginia coast in 1607 is widely attributed to bringing the knowledge of Coffee to the area due to his travels in Turkey. 

Whatever the origin story, by 1670 coffee had made its way into the official record when colonist Dorothy Jones requested a license to sell the product. I was surprised to learn that coffee was highly regulated for the time period and anyone wishing to distribute the product had to have the appropriate paperwork to do so. For Jones, the license allowed her to open a coffee house and earn a living. Unlike most other women of the period, Jones operated her business despite being married. Her husband, Morgan Jones, was a minister and teacher who apparently traveled frequently, leaving Dorthy on her own money. According to the petition, coffee wasn’t the only thing Jones was permitted to sell, quote: “Mrs. Dorothy Jones, the wife of Mr. Morgan Jones, is approved of to keep a house of public entertainment for the selling of coffee and chochaletto,” end quote. Approved to open a public venue to sell coffee and chocolate, Jones opened what is the first recorded coffee house in the nation. 

Mirroring their popularity in Britain, coffee houses spread throughout the colonies and served many different functions including as a mercantile exchange where people could buy and sell real estate, or learn about the latest imports from ship captains recently docked in the local harbor. Ironically enough, despite its high caffeine content, coffee was largely enjoyed as a dinner drink until a little revolution changed colonists drinking habits. Much like today, coffee houses were a place for people to gather and converse; however, in the colonies they quickly became a place to debate political issues. One of the most popular spots was the London Coffee House located on the corner of Front and High Street in Boston. Originally established by William Bradford in 1754, the coffee house served as both a place to learn about the latest set of goods and drink coffee. Bradford, who was a printer who published the Pennsylvania Journal, used the proceeds from his periodical to fund the coffee house, which sat next to a vacant lot where the public gathered to hold meetings and trade enslaved individuals at auction. 

However, as the relationship between the colonies and Great Britain deteriorated, the coffee house turned into a hotbed of political discussion. English conservatives across the pond began referring to American coffee houses as quote “seminaries of sedition” end quote. A place frequented by members of the area, the coffee house was the perfect place to discuss - and debate - the political news of the day and the London Coffee House eventually turned into a quote unquote breeding ground for revolutionary conversations as colonists became increasingly angered over parliament’s attempts to generate revenue through passing various tax bills. Yet another popular place to air grievances was the Green Dragon Tavern, which some call the quote unquote headquarters of revolution. Members of the Sons of Liberty hosted meetings at the Green Dragon after several men belonging to the St. Andrew’s Lodge of Freemasons bought it.  Of course, if you remember your history then you know there was one particular tax that prompted a little party in the Boston Harbor. 

In 1767 and 1768, the British Parliament passed a series of bills known as the Townshend Revenue Acts, including the revenue act which placed a tax upon several goods imported to the colonies, including tea. This was followed up in 1773 with the passage of the Tea Act. While the bill did not add any additional taxes, it essentially gave the East India Trading Company a monopoly on tea sales in the colonies. Colonists, already angered at what they perceived as unlawful taxes levied against them with the Revenue Act in 1767, became incensed at being pushed to buy tea from a single source. This frustration bubbled to the surface in December 1773, when members of the Sons of Liberty disguised as Native Americans, boarded a merchant ship, and dumped 92,000 pounds of tea into the ocean. 

Suddenly, coffee took on a new meaning and people in support of separating from the Crown began to replace their usual tea with coffee. As author and tour guide Monika Trobits wrote quote: “Drinking coffee became an act of patriotism, and it evolved into the drink of democracy,” end quote. Even founding father Thomas Jefferson lent his support for the tea alternative, reportedly calling coffee quote “the favorite drink of the civilized world,” end quote. George Washington, who was also a fan, importing more than 200 pounds by 1770. Washington also contributed to the patriotic cause as best he could as he had begun planting and cultivating the coffee plant on his estate in Mount Vernon. 

The caffeinated commodity was initially imported via the docks in New York, however as time went on, New Orleans and San Francisco became major ports of entry for the beans. In 1803, New Orleans imported 1,438 bags of coffee weighing in at 132 pounds each. This number grew significantly and by 1857, New Orleans counted 531,236 bags in its import logs. The Civil War temporarily halted southern importation of coffee given the various blockades in place, and coffee - like many other everyday products - suffered from significant inflation. A single pound of coffee cost $5. For reference, in California at my local grocery store, an 18oz bag of Peets coffee sells for $15, and $10 for a generic brand. Coffee became a necessary staple for the military by the late 18th century, who used it as a replacement for rum and brandy in soldiers’ rations and during the Civil War, soldiers used the drink to stay awake during battle. Making coffee was still a bit of a process and busy soldiers on the go looked for ways to streamline the process, leading to the country’s first iteration of instant coffee. 

The first U.S based coffee company was launched in San Francisco in 1850. Likely in response to the economic boom to the area as the result of the influx of people coming in search of gold, the Pioneer Steam Coffee & Spice Mills company is considered the first to commercialize and produce coffee on a mass scale. The company still exists today, though you probably know it by its current moniker, Folgers. This was followed by Maxwell House, which was launched in 1892 in Nashville, Tennessee. Founded by Joel Cheek, the name comes from a local hotel who sold Cheek’s coffee in its establishment. The coffee was apparently so popular with patrons that they demanded the hotel continue selling the product.  

In addition to boasting the country’s first mass coffee production company, San Francisco was also home to several coffee shops. The city counted 17 coffee houses in 1854 with a population of about 45,000. By 1895, the last year that coffee houses were listed as a separate entity from restaurants, the city was home to 70 local shops for people to enjoy their morning drink. Despite their popularity in San Francisco, coffee shops as a sought out location receded a bit in the nineteenth century as more men flocked to private clubs and bars to enjoy a stiff drink. 

The 1850s is also when people began roasting their coffee beans, improving the overall flavor of the otherwise bitter concoction. Coffee in its natural form is actually green - it gets its brown coloring through the roasting process. Despite roasting, the overall quality of the coffee remained inconsistent. If you are a coffee aficionado, then you likely understand that coffee is the best and most flavorful when it is fresh. Throughout the nineteenth century packaging and shipping methods were inconsistent - leading to unpredictable flavors and quality. As technologies developed during the late nineteenth and early twentieth centuries, coffee producers were able to capitalize and create a fresher, more consistent product. Roasters were able to vacuum seal their coffee, thereby preserving the beans shelf life and allowing it to remain on the market longer. Shipping also got better, meaning consumers got their coffee faster. 

The craze over coffee continued into the twentieth century and roasters tried various strands to find the quote unquote best bean. These experiments did not always go so well such as when farmers tried to grow a strand of coffee known as the Robusta. Farmers liked it because it was easy to grow and carried a significant caffeine content, but the finished product had a terrible flavor and required a long roasting time for it to be mildly palpable and consumers rejected the brew.  

While roasters continued to experiment with different blends and methods for packaging coffee, the coffee house made a resurgence in popularity as a place where people could gather and mingle while enjoying a cup of jo. This was partially a result of the success of the Temperance movement, but also the result of increased immigration from Italy. In an article about the link between folk music, counterculture, and coffee houses, Stephen Winick wrote quote: “Italian-style coffeehouses brought with them espresso machines, pastries, and an informal, intimate, and slightly edgy atmosphere that encouraged progressive political conversations,” end quote. 

And while the earliest versions of coffee shops were privately owned small businesses, in the twentieth century the coffee house went commercial. On April 1, 1966 the first official coffee chain opened its doors. And if you are thinking Starbucks, think again. It was actually Alfred Peet, of Peets Coffee & Tea, who opened the first commercial coffee house, opening his first store in Berkeley, California. Born in the Netherlands in 1920, Peet learned the business by helping his father. He continued to work in the coffee business as an importer before relocating to California and establishing a small shop near the UC Berkeley campus. If you’ve ever had the brand, then you know Peets coffee tends to be a bit darker and stronger in flavor. This was all intentional and, despite his mother’s opinion that it was a bit too dark, Peet moved forward with his signature flavor profile. Peet actually trained and mentored Gordon Bowker, Zev Siegl, and Jerry Baldwin, the men who later launched Starbucks in 1971. There are currently 24,000 coffee shops throughout the United States who sell an average of 230 cups of coffee per store each day. That’s a LOT of coffee. 

Today, coffee shops and specialized coffee drinks are ubiquitous and with the advancement of technology, you are but a cell phone signal away from ordering your customized beverage. And let's not forget all the seasonal favorites like the love-it-or-hate-it Pumpkin Spice latte which seems to get released earlier and earlier each year. Not that I am complaining. 

Popularized due to a sense of patriotic duty during the American Revolution, coffee continues to be a favorite American beverage. Whether you like your morning java black, flavored with seasonal syrups, or diluted with steamed milk, you'll find a coffee tradition as rich and diverse as American history itself. 

A big thanks to Phillip for suggesting the topic. It was amusing to me that it took a guest request for me to actually cover coffee, but here we are. And as the case whenever I dive into your suggestions, I learned a lot about the history of one my favorite drinks. If you ever have a topic you want me to cover, let me know. You can catch me on a variety of social media channels including Instagram, Facebook, the app formerly known as Twitter, Threads, and Blue Sky. Or, you can head over to the website at www dot civics and coffee dot com. In addition to contacting me, the website also is where you can see transcripts, source material, and learn about ways you can support the show. 

Thanks, peeps. I’ll see you next week.

Thanks for tuning and I hope you enjoyed this episode of Civics & Coffee. If you want to hear more small snippets from american history, be sure to subscribe wherever you get your podcasts. Thanks for listening and I look forward to our next cup of coffee together. 

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